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| Handling of Fabrics |
All fabrics have a grain. The grain determins the amount of stretch in the fabric. The lengthwise or straight grain runs parallel with the selvages (side edges). It has the least stretch and therefore most garment pieces are placed with the lengthwise grain running vertically down the pattern piece. The crosswise grain is at right angles to the lengthwise grain and runs from selvage to selvage. It has slightly more give than the lengthwise grain, thus most pattern pieces are laid on the fabric with the cross wise grain going around the body. |
| Sewing tips for specialist fabrics |
Use sharp shears to cut out.• Use serrated shears when cutting silks or very fine fabrics. The serrated blades will grip the fabric as it is cut.• Cut facings from lining fabrics rather than heavy pile fabrics or those with beads and sequins.• Change needles and pins frequently, particularly when sewing fabrics with metallic fibres withch can blunt them easily.• When working with flimsy fabrics, use lots of pins in the seam allowance to keep the layers together. |